After two long years of silence, Bethlehem has finally returned to its festive rhythm. The holy city, revered as the birthplace of Jesus, had canceled all public Christmas celebrations during the Gaza war. Streets once alive with lights, music, and joyful crowds were left empty, and local businesses dependent on tourism suffered a devastating blow. But now, with a recent ceasefire in place, Bethlehem’s iconic giant Christmas tree in front of the historic Nativity Church has been lit once more, symbolizing a cautious yet hopeful return to celebration.
Bethlehem Mayor Maher Canawati acknowledges the difficult context. “It’s been a bad two years of silence; no Christmas, no jobs, no work,” he reflects. “We’re all living here from tourism and tourism was down to zero.” While some voices questioned whether celebrations were appropriate given ongoing suffering in Gaza, particularly among its small Christian population, the mayor insists that Christmas represents hope that should never be halted.
Locals of both Christian and Muslim faiths have gathered in Manger Square, snapping selfies in front of the tree adorned with red and gold baubles. Foreign tourists, though few, join in the festive spirit. Streets are now illuminated with colorful lights, and signs advertising Christmas bazaars and children’s parties bring life back to the city. Nadya Hazboun, a local jewellery designer, captures the sentiment: “This is where it all started, so this is where we can send the message to the world of what really Christmas should be about.”
Neighboring towns, including Beit Jala and Beit Sahour, plan to light their own trees in the coming days, signaling a wider regional revival of holiday festivities. Hotels, mostly empty for the past two years, are seeing a surge in bookings from Palestinian citizens of Israel and foreign visitors. Russian tourist Angelica, on her second pilgrimage to the Holy Land, highlights the unique experience: “The only thing that’s good is that you don’t have long lines – you can see more things.”
Despite the renewed celebrations, the economic impact of the war remains stark. Public servants have received only partial salaries, unemployment has surged, and tens of thousands of Palestinian labourers remain barred from entering Israel for work. Souvenir stores remain quiet, and tour guides like Hamza worry that ongoing news coverage deters visitors, though he assures all is safe. “This is a tourist city; without tourism there is no life,” he laments, hopeful that crowds will return.
For many Palestinian Christians, this Christmas will be humble. Local restaurants and street vendors, once thriving on festive crowds, are struggling. Alaa Salameh, owner of the decades-old Afteem restaurant, notes that families are celebrating according to their means, with some unable to afford even simple snacks like falafel.
At the Nativity Church’s grotto, pilgrims from around the world continue to visit the sacred site where Jesus is believed to have been born, lighting candles and offering prayers for peace. For Bethlehem, the relighting of the Christmas tree is more than a symbol; it is a beacon of resilience, faith, and hope that, even after years of hardship, the spirit of Christmas endures.